Fashion Week Report: Day One

The Couture Council bestowed its annual award for artistry in fashion to Oscar de la Renta Wednesday at a gala luncheon at Lincoln Center. New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg presented the award at this lovely event that not only supports FIT’s Museum, but which also functions as the unofficial kickoff of New York fashion week. The “official” Mercedes Benz Fashion Week actually started on Wednesday, but independently minded menswear designers, chomping at the bit, got going Tuesday, too.

FIT’s Dr. Joyce Brown with the iconic Oscar de la Renta.

At Raleigh Denim, designer Sarah Lytvinenko said when asked, “We design for us and our friends! We design what we know.” Her favorite look from the collection was a classic schoolboy blazer, shown with a belt that’s a collaboration with Artemas Quibble and a shirt that featured a graph paper design. “I like covered plackets this season. For instance it changes this workwear jacket (shown) into something more elegant.”

Raleigh Denim: Sarah Lytvinenko’s favorite look.


Raleigh Denim


Raleigh Denim

I have lots to say about Bernardo Rojo’s Joseph Abboud collection (loved it!), but will let you hear about that from Karen’s perspective (for now).

At Shades of Grey, designer Micah Cohen’s presentation notes said the collection was “streetwear” influenced…. Suiting and polished classics remain a cornerstone of the collection….” Indeed the collection felt much more relaxed than previous seasons, with a young attitude embodied by shorts and bold, colorful prints, really keying into the surfer aesthetic we’ve been seeing so much of this season. Personally, I loved it, and I would encourage retailers to pull this collection in to add some salable excitement to the floor.

Shades of Grey


Shades of Grey and one of this season’s ubiquitous bandanna prints.


Shades of Grey


Shades of Grey’s Micah Cohen

DL 1961’s creative director Sarah Ahmed says her customer is “anyone who wears denim! Denim is universal. Walk down any block in New York City and you’ll see it interpreted ten different ways.” Her favorite look? “I’m wearing it! I’m all about black and gold. It’s our ‘X-fit’ fabric with a shiny finish that makes you look skinny. There are gold zippers that really anyone could do…but we put them in all the right places.” What should retailers know about the collection? “Our jeans are for everyone. They fit every body-type, every demographic. This collection is designed to showcase our work to New York. Our core philosophy is our fabric. The collection has energy which comes from our fabric and our technology.” The DL 1961 show started with a modern dance performance that showcased the X-fit fabrics stretch properties, but men’s styles focused on great fit and a broad color palette.

DL1961’s opening dance performance showed off the “X-fit’s” benefits.


DL1961


DL1961


DL1961


DL1961’s women’s look in black with “zippers in all the right places.”


DL1961’s creative director, Sarah Ahmed, left, takes a bow.

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