MR fashion director William Buckley on some of his favorite brands from the Las Vegas shows, including Neuw Denim, CPT by Cockpit, Kent and Curwen, Boglioli, Woolrich Woolen Mills by Mark McNairy, Members Only and Bills Khakis.
Key people: Par Lundqvist, head designer
Major influences/styles: Largely influenced by music from the punk rock scene of the late ’60s and early ’70s, Lundqvist is a collector of all things denim from the last 100 years. Referencing the traditions of pattern making and tailoring, he re-cuts the jeans and re-develops the fabrics to give them a modern interpretation in a process he calls Vintage Revision.
Retail price range: Denim: $150-$200
Current retailers: American Rag, Fred Segal, Atrium, Oak, Azalea
“The brand was born here in Nieuwlandstraat, Brussels,” explains Lundqvist. “This is where I began to tailor and alter vintage pieces from my denim archive and where the idea of Vintage Revision was born. For Fall 2014 there are two key collections to the range; the first is called ‘The Damned’ and is inspired by Ann Summa’s photo book, ‘The Beautiful and the Damned,’ which depicts the punk and avant-garde scene of Los Angeles during the late ’70s and early ’80s, offering a range of products that embodies the dark, decadent and gritty spirit of the people and the music featured in the book,” he says. “The second collection is called ‘Prosperity’ and is based on images from a book by Mike Brodie called ‘A Period of Juvenile Prosperity.’ The body of work has inspired a range of premium quality denim and canvas washes with natural worn effects developed with these photos in mind.”
“Civilian Pilot Training” by Cockpit USA
Established: 2012 (Civilian Pilot Training) 1975 Cockpit
Key people: Jeff Clyman, president and founder
Major influences/styles: Official suppliers to military and aviation organizations, Cockpit USA has launched many of the iconic military outerwear pieces of the last few decades. Their Civilian Pilot Training line offers lifestyle pieces, with exciting knit outerwear and luxe lamb leather offerings.
Retail price range: $350-$1200
Current retailers: Bloomingdales’s
“These made in the USA items embody the DNA of authenticity and quality of the company since its inception in 1975,” explains Clyman, “but translated into luxurious, contemporary fabric and leather constructions with contemporary fits.”
Kent and Curwen
Key people: Simon Spurr, designer
Major influences/styles: British heritage re-imagined for the Kent and Curwen man’s contemporary lifestyle
Retail price range: Suits $1,495; outerwear $375-$1,995; wovens $195-$245; pants $225-$375; sweaters $325-$495; knits $95-$245.
Current retailers: Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Saks, Nordstrom Direct, Bloomingdales Direct, Saks Fifth Avenue Direct, Trunk Club, Kent and Curwen Madison Avenue (opening spring 2014)
“The Autumn/Winter 2014 collection is really a considered evolution, modernizing the full lifestyle wardrobe of the Kent and Curwen man,” explains Spurr. “A Melton Peacoat inspired by British naval dress uniform has these lion head crested metal buttons and leather epaulets; a wool/cashmere officer’s coats with rabbit fur at the lapel…it’s the reinterpretation, the juxtaposition of these kind of iconic pieces,” he says. “Motorcycle jackets, but with channel quilted lapels, and pairing that with tuxedo trousers, and Fair Isle jumpers, and duffle coats with Aran sleeves, and cricket sweaters that are reversible.”
Key people: Men’s creative director Jay Vosoghi and CEO Giovanni Mannucci
Produced in: Italy
Major influences/styles: Pioneers of the garment-washed jacket, Boglioli offers deconstructed Italian menswear. Relaxed luxury sport coats and overcoats are offered in a palette of autumnal colors including dark reds, greens, and browns.
Retail price range: $995 to $2,495
Current retailers: Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Unionmade, Mr. Porter, Axel’s
“We aimed to create a unique look that would hit the visual senses,” says Vosoghi. “The effect should almost be subliminal.”
Woolrich Woolen Mills by Mark McNairy
Key People: Mark McNairy
Major influences/styles: Classic Woolrich outerwear, re-imagined in Mark McNairy style
Retail price range: From $65 for graphic t-shirts to $850 for ballistic nylon parkas
“Woolrich Woolen Mills represents Woolrich’s commitment to American-made products,” says Woolrich EVP and eighth generation family member Joshua Rich. “Having Mark back on board to design this collection is the perfect way for us to continue moving the needle when it comes to design and craftsmanship.”
“Reunited, and it feels so good,” adds McNairy. “I’m back.”
Key People: Jaggi Singh, president and CEO
Major influences/styles: Members Only iconic racer / rocker culture / all-American varsity jackets, baseball jacket, aviator jacket, motorcycle jacket
Retail price range: $88 to $495
Current retailers: Lord & Taylor, Urban Outfitters
“This season, the collection is about updating our iconic racer while bringing back some of the iconic American silhouettes, such as the varsity jacket, aviator bomber and the rocker motorcycle jackets,” says designer Gilbert Chen. “We’re offering the iconic bomber in new materials, such as wool, faux leather, oxford nylon and leather to name a few. For the American classics, we created a Members Only interpretation of what we think they should look in the modern days — some key pieces are wool plaid varsity jacket, parka with leather shoulder patch and satin nylon aviator jacket.
Key People: Founder Bill Thomas, president John Dever, VP of sales Mary Jo Dever and VP of operations John Dever III
Major influences/styles: The spirit of American manufacturing and design
Retail price range: $95 to $1,500
Current retailers: About 550 men’s specialty stores, Bloomingdale’s
“Drawing inspiration from the past and retooling it for today is an inspiring process to be part of,” says Bill Thomas. “Creating something of value is the measure of success.”