MR fashion director William Buckley on some of his favorite brands from the Las Vegas shows, including Barbour, Onassis, Muskoka Dry Goods, Will Leather Goods, Schott, Handstich and S. Moritz.
Established: Barbour in 1894; Barbour International in 1936
Key people: Ian Bergin, head of menswear
Major influences/styles: Barbour is a 120-year-old global brand with a distinct British attitude, synonymous with quality, durability and timeless style, anchored by the iconic wax coat with four unique collections: heritage, classic, contemporary and sporting. This season Barbour launches a new denim collection, and their first collaboration, Deus Ex Machina.
Retail price range: Barbour International Denim collection range is $149 to $229
Current retailers: Bloomingdale’s, Saks, Nordstrom and specialty stores nationwide
“Barbour has always produced clothing that is practical and fit for purpose,” explains Bergin. “When we looked back through the archives, workwear featured strongly in the catalogs as a sensible solution for those people who worked outdoors. We have a new denim collection that celebrates this workwear ethic. It’s a natural partner to the biker look and we have carefully chosen a very high quality denim that, like our jackets, will age well. Each pair of jeans will take on their own personality and characteristics the more they are washed and worn.” Bergin continues, “We are also bringing our new collaboration with Australian brand Deus Ex Machina to market. The brand is the perfect partner to launch our first collaboration on Barbour International. The collection incorporates the tradition of our long biking heritage into contemporary designs in a modern fit to create some very special products. It’s a collection that is bound to attract interest amongst bike loving aficionados across the world; rugged Barbour construction married with Australian resourcefulness and a strong sense of creating products which are intrinsically right.”
Key people: Paul Jacobsen, VP of sales and marketing
Major influences/styles: Classic Americana with a global point of view
Retail price range: T-shirts from $48, woven shirts are $98 to $168, blazers from $298, sweaters from $198, and outerwear from $398
Current retailers: Onassis SoHo flagship, Onassis Rockefeller Center, Onassis San Francisco, Onassis Tokyo, onassisclothing.com.
“Onassis is a brand that focuses on the codes of menswear,” explains Jacobsen. “For FW14 we are continuing that idea with classic menswear options from expertly tailored suiting separates in double-faced wools to luxurious hand-knit sweaters and signature shirting.”
Muskoka Dry Goods
Key people: Diane Grundy, sales director, and Pamela Morrison, marketing director
Major influences/styles: Inspired by the region’s natural beauty and spirit, carrying on the tradition of understated luxury and expert craftsmanship, blending comfort with modern silhouettes while remaining authentic to the Muskoka lifestyle.
Retail price range: Wovens: $195-$295; outerwear: $595-$1295; pants: $195-$275; and sweaters: $195-$450
Current retailers: Launching for fall 2014 in the U.S. and international markets.
“We all have our Muskoka,” explains Morrison. “For some, it’s a perfect courtyard or the patio of a favorite local eatery; for others it’s a converted barn in Tuscany or a tiny chalet up on a mountain. For us, Muskoka is where we go to recharge and find some perspective in our lives. It is ever evolving, but always home. It is a state of mind and attitude that is the inspiration behind our brand.”
Will Leather Goods
Key people: William Adler, president, founder & creative director
Major influences/styles: Oregonian lifestyle brand inspired by outdoors, nature and journey.
Retail price range: Small good from $50 to $900 for all leather bags. Also offers one-of-a-kind “found” pieces including home furnishings.
Current retailers: Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales, www.willleathergoods.com
“We are excited to introduce the new water-resistant Gridwax collection for the upcoming season,” says Adler. “The three-piece grouping of bags are made of 10.1 oz wax coated ripstop canvas paired with Italian Vegetable Leather, and each bag comes with a wax used to treat the bag so it maintains its water resistance and outdoor functionality for years of adventure to come.”
Key people: Jason Schott, fourth generation, chief operating officer
Major influences/styles: The 2014 collection continues to be influenced by our archives of military, motorcycle and workwear styles. We have added new fits, skins and linings to our classic leather styles. We are developing treatments for new skins to create different finishes and to begin the break in process. We have updated classic styles, adapting fits and evolving the materials for separate markets.
Retail price range: Wool $200 to $600, leather $300 to $1250, sportswear $100 to $250
Current retailers: Barneys New York, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom
“We are best known for heavy duty leather jackets that are worn as protection,” explains Schott, “but this season we are using lighter-weight skins and have developed new treatments to the skins putting an emphasis on choosing unique hand feels and textures.”
Key people: André Berger, owner, creative director & designer
Major influences/styles: Outerwear inspired by travel and multi-culturalism, combining refinement and functionality, with offerings in leather and mixed media.
Retail price range: $800 to $2,700
Current retailers: Stanley Korshak, Axel’s, J3 Clothing
“We at Handstich have our own unique definition of style, interpreting it in a contemporary and modern way,” says Berger. “Our approach originates from travel, drawing inspiration from various cultures, as well as the desire to love, live and discover life to the fullest. We combine all these influences in the unmistakable Handstich collection, developed in the town of Seefeld in Bavaria’s Five Lake Area near Munich. The mindset that forms the basis for this approach is constantly evolving and is optimized with every new collection. This process is expressed in the refinement and definition of functional and high quality details, in the selection of the leather, the lasts and the materials in our shoes as well as in the harmonious combination of materials and details on our jackets. We are committed to fusing Values, modernity, quality, soul, the unexpected, hand craftsmanship and authenticity in a new, original attitude and design. This is evident in the images featured in our marketing material, on our website and in all our communications — compelling and clear-cut with every new season.”
Key people: Olmes Carretti, creator of the brand in 1978; Alfredo Argirò, designer of the FW14/15 collection
Major influences/styles: heritage knitwear from ski styles to ’50s submarine turtle neck
Retail price range: $250 to $600
Current retailers: First move into the U.S. market
“This is a knitwear collection that really comes from the past, with the goal of being different,” says Argirò.” We have a heritage of more than 35 years, and all our knitwear is Made in Italy.”