This is Part Three of the Trend Report.
Part One: Awning Stripes to Dressing Gowns
Part Two: Eisenhower Jackets to Neck Scarves
*All designers listed from top left to right and bottom left to right throughout.
Neutrals on neutrals on neutrals; everything from tan, sand and khaki to cream, beige and taupe all put together like exploded desert storm camo.
While such in-your-face outfits are not for the faint of heart, the patterns in suiting this season were outstanding. From the more wearable repeat prints from Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander to the full-on art from Moschino or Walter Van Beirendonk, for a (much) more confident consumer.
Patterns on Patterns
A little difficult to nail, pattern on pattern is at it’s most successful when the patterns are from the same palette. More muted options from Valentino, Damir Doma, and Yohji Yamamoto are probably the best place to start.
Always a summer staple, but the pea coat is updated in cropped silhouettes from Gucci and Ports 1961, softer fabrics from Varvatos, and statement colors from Dior Homme and Gieves & Hawkes.
This Schott silhouette is updated in bright colors and more muted tones, delivered in the typical leather, but also in butter-soft lamb skin and suede.
Suits in all shades of pink, from bubblegum at Etro, fuchsia from Boglioli, salmon from No. 21, and pale pinks from Marc Jacobs, Versace and Comme des Garcon.
Always an option in suits, but this season also worn head to toe in shirts and pants from Dries Van Noten and J.W. Anderson, statement colors from Trussardi and Umit Bernan, or even a jumpsuit from 3.1 Philip Lim.
With a collegiate feel, piping was not limited to the blazer, but also found action in outerwear.
It seemed a little like a witch hunt when, not so many seasons ago pleats suddenly lost all favor. Even people with no knowledge of or interest in fashion would point out someone’s pleats with a shake of the head and an under-the-breath tut. Well boys, they’re back in business, so if you are one of the unfortunate folk who threw out all your old pleated pants, get thee back to your nearest haberdashery and let this be a lesson to you all.
While the lace-up incarnation of these gym-class heroes have been big business in European menswear, this simpler slip-on is supplanting it’s more fiddly sibling.
Not quite dotting the runways with the vim and vigor of 2014, the polka dot is still present, in the over-sized offerings from Kenzo and Sibling, to the smiley-face sporting circles from Moschino.
This most royal of colors is shown in hues from the Tyrian purpura for which the color is named (Brioni, Costume National), to a more blue-tinted indigo (Burluti, Tod’s).
While the double-breasted Burberry-style trench was present in numerous collections, it was the more minimal single-breasted raincoat that dominated the lightweight overcoat options this season, offered in classic neutrals, aforementioned blues and autumnal tones.
If Eisenhower’s zippered blouson is not the jacket of the season that we think it is, then the safari jacket is surely the next contender. Upscale elegance with a gentleman’s ruggedness, giving both form and function from all the most luxury labels.
While tailored knee-length shorts will more readily reserve your modesty, many collections offer short (and shorter) options.
The short suit is a welcome seasonal alternative, with casual Fridays (but not too casual) written all over it. More formal incarnations may also be worn to weddings and fancy garden parties.
Shrunken Suit Jackets
This trend took off in Japan a number of years ago, particularly the significantly shorter jacket that’s made it’s way to the West, and has influenced a (definitely more modest) reduction in our mass-market suit jacket lengths.
These glorified flip-flops are branded or patterned and will pass for something more suitable than a thong.
Socks and Sandals
Yes, it’s true, that number one bastion and generation-enduring fashion faux pas of the century has surrendered. Louis Vuitton dipped a sockèd pinkie into the water, and the deluge that’s now evident has engulfed almost every collection. Embrace it. Your toes will be warmer, and only good can come of that.
Championed by Boglioli, LBM and Berluti, the softcoat is now a staple. Simple.
Consumer confidence and the jacket of the moment clash in a battle of contrast and color.
Athleisure is surely at its finest when sportswear and even tailored clothing are complemented by a pair of designer sweatpants. Also N.B.: gone are the flapping foot holes of recent: welcome back the elasticated cuff!
Sun’s out: guns out. But less fist pump and more fashion, with graphic prints from Dolce & Gabbana, Kenzo and Raf Simons, or doubled up and contrasting from Calvin Klein Collection and Cerruti 1881.
Another typically autumnal color is stretching its legs and taking a summer vacation. Terracotta, and other shades of reddish brown are put together like our beloved neutrals, but a little bit bolder.
A dedicated shout out to Bobby Abley for his fantastic Little Mermaid-inspired Sebastian the crab (see below), vermilion was pipped to the post only by the significantly more all-encompassing Blue. Shade for shade though, vermilion may take the win.
Like so many angels, models in head to toe white walked runways like purity personified.
Not as notable as their bomber or zipped blouson brethren, the windbreaker was still present and correct.
Checks of all shapes (well, mostly square) and sizes were seen, but the big windowpane check was superior.
While we will always anticipate the zig-zag from Missoni, it was fun to spot a similar motif in Topman, Paul Smith and Louis Vuitton. I wonder if designers at the three brands phoned each other and sent round sketches to set the trend…