58 Trends, Part 3: Neutrals to Zig-Zags

This is Part Three of the Trend Report.
Part One: Awning Stripes to Dressing Gowns
Part Two: Eisenhower Jackets to Neck Scarves



*All designers listed from top left to right and bottom left to right throughout.

Neutrals

Neutrals on neutrals on neutrals; everything from tan, sand and khaki to cream, beige and taupe all put together like exploded desert storm camo.

Neutrals 1Neutrals 2Andrea Pompilio, Bottega Veneta, Berluti, Calvin Klein Collection, Fendi
Salvatore Ferragamo, Gieves & Hawkes, Hermès, Rag & Bone, Roberto Cavalli

Patterned Suits

While such in-your-face outfits are not for the faint of heart, the patterns in suiting this season were outstanding. From the more wearable repeat prints from Dries Van Noten and Jil Sander to the full-on art from Moschino or Walter Van Beirendonk, for a (much) more confident consumer.

Patterned Suits 1Patterned Suits 2Dolce & Gabbana, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Moschino, Valentino
Walter Van Beirendonck, Jonathan Saunders, Dries Van Noten, Brioni, Comme des Garcons

Patterns on Patterns

A little difficult to nail, pattern on pattern is at it’s most successful when the patterns are from the same palette. More muted options from Valentino, Damir Doma, and Yohji Yamamoto are probably the best place to start.

Pattern on Pattern Pattern on Pattern 1Yohji Yamamoto, Opening Ceremony, Comme des Garcons Shirt, Damir Doma
Issey Miyake, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood, Walter Van Beirendonck

Pea Coats

Always a summer staple, but the pea coat is updated in cropped silhouettes from Gucci and Ports 1961, softer fabrics from Varvatos, and statement colors from Dior Homme and Gieves & Hawkes.

Peacoats 1Peacoats 2Balenciaga, Dior Homme, Gieves & Hawkes, Giorgio Armani,
Gucci, John Varvatos, Ports 1961, Tom Ford

Perfecto

This Schott silhouette is updated in bright colors and more muted tones, delivered in the typical leather, but also in butter-soft lamb skin and suede.

Perfecto 1 Perfecto 2Gieves & Hawkes, Maison Martin Margiela, McQ Alexander McQueen, Neil Barrett, Off-White
A. Sauvage, Bally, Belstaff, John Varvatos, Versace

Pink Suits

Suits in all shades of pink, from bubblegum at Etro, fuchsia from Boglioli, salmon from No. 21, and pale pinks from Marc Jacobs, Versace and Comme des Garcon.

Pink Suits 1Pink Suits 2Boglioli, Comme des Garcons, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro
Marc Jacobs, No. 21, Richard James, Versace

Pinstripes

Always an option in suits, but this season also worn head to toe in shirts and pants from Dries Van Noten and J.W. Anderson, statement colors from Trussardi and Umit Bernan, or even a jumpsuit from 3.1 Philip Lim.

Pinstripes 1 Pinstripes 23.1 Phillip Lim, Costume National, Dior Homme, Dries Van Noten, E. Tautz
J.W. Anderson, Rag & Bone, Trussardi, Umit Benan, Yohji Yamamoto

Piping

With a collegiate feel, piping was not limited to the blazer, but also found action in outerwear.

Piping 1Gucci, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Philipp Plein, Thome Browne, Valentino

Pleats

It seemed a little like a witch hunt when, not so many seasons ago pleats suddenly lost all favor. Even people with no knowledge of or interest in fashion would point out someone’s pleats with a shake of the head and an under-the-breath tut. Well boys, they’re back in business, so if you are one of the unfortunate folk who threw out all your old pleated pants, get thee back to your nearest haberdashery and let this be a lesson to you all.

Pleats 2 Pleats 1Christophe Lemaire, Emporio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani
Iceberg, Kris Van Asshe, Issey Miyake, Versace

Plimsolls

While the lace-up incarnation of these gym-class heroes have been big business in European menswear, this simpler slip-on is supplanting it’s more fiddly sibling.

Plimsolls 1 Plimsolls 2Berluti, Christophe Lemaire, Dsquared, Hermès, Marc Jacobs
Philipp Plein, Emporio Armani, Ports 1961, Rag & Bone, Richard James

Polka Dots

Not quite dotting the runways with the vim and vigor of 2014, the polka dot is still present, in the over-sized offerings from Kenzo and Sibling, to the smiley-face sporting circles from Moschino.

Polka dots 1Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Kenzo, Moschino, Sibling

Purple Suits

This most royal of colors is shown in hues from the Tyrian purpura for which the color is named (Brioni, Costume National), to a more blue-tinted indigo (Burluti, Tod’s).

Purple Suits 1 Purple Suits 2Dolce & Gabbana, Paul Smith, Berluti, Brioni
Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, Tod’s, Vivienne Westwood

Raincoats

While the double-breasted Burberry-style trench was present in numerous collections, it was the more minimal single-breasted raincoat that dominated the lightweight overcoat options this season, offered in classic neutrals, aforementioned blues and autumnal tones.

Raincoats 2 Raincoats 1Balenciaga, Carven, Undercover, Berluti, Jonathan Saunders
Lou Dalton, Opening Ceremony, Paul & Joe, Prada, Andrea Pompilio

Safari Jackets

If Eisenhower’s zippered blouson is not the jacket of the season that we think it is, then the safari jacket is surely the next contender. Upscale elegance with a gentleman’s ruggedness, giving both form and function from all the most luxury labels.

Safari Jackets 1 Safari Jackets 2Andrea Pompilio, Bally, Berluti, Burberry Prorsum, Dunhill
E. Tautz, Louis Vuitton, Maison Martin Margiela, Richard James, Tod’s

Short Shorts

While tailored knee-length shorts will more readily reserve your modesty, many collections offer short (and shorter) options.

Short Shorts 1 Short Shorts 2Calvin Klein Collection, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tom Ford, Etro, Gieves & Hawkes
Jil Sander, Kenzo, Michael Kors, Band of Outsiders, Boglioli

Short Suits

The short suit is a welcome seasonal alternative, with casual Fridays (but not too casual) written all over it. More formal incarnations may also be worn to weddings and fancy garden parties.

Short Suits 2Short Suits 1Balenciaga, Givenchy, Kris Van Assche, Lou Dalton, Michael Kors
Miharayasuhiro, Missoni, Paul & Joe, Philipp Plein, Comme des Garcons

Shrunken Suit Jackets

This trend took off in Japan a number of years ago, particularly the significantly shorter jacket that’s made it’s way to the West, and has influenced a (definitely more modest) reduction in our mass-market suit jacket lengths.

Shrunken Blazers 1 Shrunken Blazers 2Diesel Black Gold, J.W. Anderson, Kris Van Assche, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Neil Barrett
Prada, Thom Browne, Viktor & Rolf, Walter Van Beirendonck, Wooyoungmi

Slide Sandals

These glorified flip-flops are branded or patterned and will pass for something more suitable than a thong.

Slide Sandals 1Jil Sander, Band of Outsiders, Kris Van Assche, Raf Simons, Rag & Bone

Socks and Sandals

Yes, it’s true, that number one bastion and generation-enduring fashion faux pas of the century has surrendered. Louis Vuitton dipped a sockèd pinkie into the water, and the deluge that’s now evident has engulfed almost every collection. Embrace it. Your toes will be warmer, and only good can come of that.

Socks and Sandals 1 Socks and Sandals 23.1 Philip Lim, Agi & Sam, Band of Outsiders, Carven, Jil Sander
Marc Jacobs, Marni, McQ Alexander McQueen, Miharayasuhiro, Paul Smith

Softcoats

Championed by Boglioli, LBM and Berluti, the softcoat is now a staple. Simple.

Softcoats 1Berluti, Boglioli, Issey Miyake, Moncler Gamme Bleu, Richard Nicoll

Statement Bombers

Consumer confidence and the jacket of the moment clash in a battle of contrast and color.

Statement Bombers 1 Statement Bombers 2A. Sauvage, Brioni, Giorgio Armani, Givenchy, Iceberg
Jonathan Saunders, Miharayasuhiro, Moschino, Neil Barrett, Opening Ceremony

Sweatpants

Athleisure is surely at its finest when sportswear and even tailored clothing are complemented by a pair of designer sweatpants. Also N.B.: gone are the flapping foot holes of recent: welcome back the elasticated cuff!

Sweatpants 1 Sweatpants 2Bottega Veneta, Christophe Lemaire, Christopher Shannon, Etro, Gosha Rubchinskiy
Iceberg, Issey Miyake, J.W. Anderson, Neil Barrett, Umit Benan

Tanks

Sun’s out: guns out. But less fist pump and more fashion, with graphic prints from Dolce & Gabbana, Kenzo and Raf Simons, or doubled up and contrasting from Calvin Klein Collection and Cerruti 1881.

Tanks 1 Tanks 2Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Kenzo, Philipp Plein, Raf Simons
Roberto Cavalli, Calvin Klein, Cerruti 1881, Dolce & Gabbana, Dries Van Noten

Terracotta

Another typically autumnal color is stretching its legs and taking a summer vacation. Terracotta, and other shades of reddish brown are put together like our beloved neutrals, but a little bit bolder.

Terracotta 1Kenzo, Louis Vuitton, Missoni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Berluti

Vermilion

A dedicated shout out to Bobby Abley for his fantastic Little Mermaid-inspired Sebastian the crab (see below), vermilion was pipped to the post only by the significantly more all-encompassing Blue. Shade for shade though, vermilion may take the win.

Vermillion 1 Vermillion 2Bobby Abley, Burberry Prorsum, Canali, Costume National, Dolce & Gabbana,
Gucci, J.W. Anderson, Raf Simons, Sibling, Vivienne Westwood.

White

Like so many angels, models in head to toe white walked runways like purity personified.

White 1 White 2Agi & Sam, Andrea Pompilio, Ann Demeulemeester, Christophe Lemaire, John Varvatos
Louis Vuitton, Neil Barrett, Richard James, Umit Benan, Versace

Windbreakers

Not as notable as their bomber or zipped blouson brethren, the windbreaker was still present and correct.

Windbreakers 1Hermes, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Issey Miyake, Bottega Veneta

Windowpane

Checks of all shapes (well, mostly square) and sizes were seen, but the big windowpane check was superior.

Windowpane 1Windowpane 23.1 Philip Lim, Ami, Boglioli, Emporio Armani
Etro, Giorgio Armani, Kris Van Assche, Thom Browne

Zig-Zags

While we will always anticipate the zig-zag from Missoni, it was fun to spot a similar motif in Topman, Paul Smith and Louis Vuitton. I wonder if designers at the three brands phoned each other and sent round sketches to set the trend…

Zigzags 1Missoni, Paul Smith, Topman, Louis Vuitton

Part One: Awning Stripes to Dressing Gowns
Part Two: Eisenhower Jackets to Neck Scarves


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