Retailing: A Store Grows in Queens

Walk into Frank Adhami’s fabulous Esquire men’s store on Steinway Street in Astoria, Queens and you might think you were on Madison Avenue or Michigan Avenue or Via Montenapoleone. The 4,000 square foot light-filled bi-level store is spectacular in terms of both merchandise and store design.

“The neighborhood is a good one,” explains Adhami, “It’s close to Manhattan with an influx of young professionals. We get lots of traffic from residential buildings and office buildings plus from a myriad of companies headquartered in Long Island City.”

Born in Iran, Adhami came to the States on his own in 1975 and was a mechanical engineering student until 1981. Finding it tough to find a job in his field, he opened his first store in 1981: a smaller location in Corona, Queens. Ultimately, he was involved in six stores but now he’s focusing on Esquire with his business partner Edmond Adelipour.

In addition to great product and store design, Esquire is also one of the greenest stores around: recycled shopping bags and a new lighting system based on solar installation (which is where his mechanical engineering degree kicks in…).

And from 28 years in the better men’s business, Adhami knows a thing or two about how to sell clothing to upscale men. “Guys are essentially lazy and not all that imaginative. They come here for exceptional service and for unique items that are different enough to be special but not too different, not offensive. We search the world for these items and we’re willing to venture a bit out of the box.”

The mix at Esquire comprises fine brands like Canali, Burberry, Mabro, Versace, Fabio Inghirami, Pal Zileri, Eton (“They make a great shirt; retails are $195-$275”) and beautiful designer ties from $150-$295. Suit prices range from $800 to $2,500 but clothing business is admittedly tough, due largely to price-cutting at the major stores.

He gives an example. “I had two customers call me in November from the selling floor of Saks Fifth Avenue. They had recently made purchases in my store and called to tell me that the same suits they bought here (current, in-season, fresh merchandise) were on sale at Saks for 40 percent off. (Saks’ original ticket prices, however, were higher than my price…) Of course, I offered to meet the marked down price. And I believe this will be the challenge for the next two to three seasons: how to convince customers to once again pay full price.

“For now, most customer are holding back, no matter what we offer them. It’s unfortunate because many guys tell me that it’s not all gloom and doom out there. In fact, some say that they’re doing fine financially but out of respect for those who aren’t, they don’t want to flaunt luxury purchases. They also say that if they pay full price these days, they feel like they’re being taken.”

Adhami’s current business is half clothing and furnishings, half sportswear. “Clothing is much tougher to sell; the growth is in sportswear. But these days, even premium denim (Seven, Mek, Alberto, Earnest Sewn) is tough. “Three years ago it was trendier to wear expensive labels; now guys feel comfortable in Levis.”

Asked about special events that drive traffic, Adhami observes that “if men know that ladies will be in the store, they show up! On the other hand, when guys come in to shop with their wives, you always have to sell the wife.” Adhami estimates that 25 percent of his customers come in to shop with wives or girlfriends. When guys shop alone, “95 percent of them come back to tell us that their wife really liked what they bought!”

What’s needed to jumpstart clothing sales? In addition to an improved economy, Adhami believes that “the big guys (Zegna, Loro Piana, Peerless) have to make it cool to dress up again. It doesn’t have to be in suits, even sportcoats will do! The key is to do some great marketing!”

Next for Adhami and Esquire: to open a sister store for ladies. “We’re just looking for the right location,” Adhami confides. (Editor’s note: And he thinks he has problems now…)