Jim Edelman: King of Clothing

What follows is MR’s April 2005 profile and tribute to Macy’s buyer Jim Edelman, who passed away today.

It’s lunchtime but Jim Edelman orders only fruit salad. Troubled by a leg injury sustained this past February, Jimmy explains that since he can’t exercise at the moment, he’s trying not to eat too much. “But there are a few positives,” he acknowledges, making light of the pain he’s in. “I actually have Joe Gordon coming down to see me…”

His well-recognized staccato laugh lights up the room as he speaks candidly about sales trends, market offerings, and the latest industry gossip. “I think he’s out of control…” “That line’s ridiculously overpriced.” “An outrageous move!” “That will never happen, you know what I mean…” Jimmy’s opinion on industry issues is insightful, opinionated and very much sought after. (Just don’t try to ascertain in-store or vendor secrets: to the frustration of this editor, here’s a guy who’s respectful of people’s privacy and knows when to keep his mouth shut…)

Growing up in New York City, Jimmy graduated from Horace Mann and then Wharton with a BS degree in economics. He started his career at Macy’s, then served in the Air Force. Upon his return, he did a short stint at Montgomery Ward (“I didn’t love it”) before joining A&S Manhasset as department manager in ladies’. Soon after, he was named fashion fabrics buyer. “The downtown Brooklyn store at the time did a huge business in sewing notions and patterns (Simplicity, Vogue, Butterick) and I was being groomed for a big job in ladies,” Jimmy explains. “But when the men’s clothing buyer resigned, the senior VP offered me that spot. I didn’t want it. I never pretended to be the best-dressed guy in the world, and my fashion knowledge was limited. But I was informed that if I didn’t take that particular job, I had no future at A&S…”

Below: Edelman with daughter Sara, son Michael and wife Diane.

His mentor at the time was Milt Ludmar, who Jimmy describes as “a prince of an individual and a mentor to so many in the industry (Mark Cohen, Jimmy Rosenthal, Walter Rossi, Bob Oppenheimer, Ira Pickell, Frank Tworecke). When I first got the suit job, I asked Milt how I could possibly learn the men’s clothing business overnight. He told me to just look at what people in the streets were actually wearing. He was an old-school type of manager: he didn’t dictate, he didn’t spoon feed; he let you do it your way, as long as it was working…”

Ironically, it is Jimmy who is now known as the quintessential mentor and teacher. “He has respect for talent,” colleagues maintain. “He is a strong leader and in addition to training his people, he is very protective of them.” Of Phil Markert, his dress pants and separates buyer, Jimmy says, “He has the unusual combination of taste level and statistical ability so he knows how to control inventory. If 5000 is the right number, he’d never be at 10,000.” He also has compliments for Santiago, Jonathan, and the rest of his clothing staff. “Happiness is working with bright enthusiastic caring people. My team is terrific: they have drive and ambition and they totally energize me. I’ve learned that if you give people a chance to do their thing, if you recognize their skills and intelligence, you get results.”

And Macy’s clothing results for spring ‘05 have been impressive. A mid-March fashion show hosted by Donald Trump brought in record crowds and Trump himself (now good friends with Terry Lundgren) proved to be incredibly personable and charming. On the Trump clothing line, recently launched as a Macy’s exclusive, Jimmy knows already it’s a homerun. “At a $500 ticket price ($350 less 10 percent out the door), we started off putting it in the back of the department and it still sold 10-12 percent a week. It’s a great product, and Marcraft’s investment in marketing certainly helps.”

Of course, the other factor boosting sales of Trump suits, and a few other collections at the moment, is the personal sellers subsidized by vendors. Although Jimmy prefers not to discuss who pays for what, and whether commission or bonus incentives is a better arrangement, he truly believes that “vendor-subsidized sellers will be the future of the clothing business.”

Other success stories this spring season: Tasso Elba (“the consumer perceives it as the finest quality suit and sportcoat on the floor”), the continued strength of side-vents (Jimmy credits celebrities like Jay Leno; “he always wears side-vents and looks great in them”), flatfronts, pinstripes and separates, not to mention lighter-colored suitings. “The customer clearly wants light and medium shades for warm weather and also stretch fabrics. Stretch is doing remarkably well in suits, dress pants, separates and sportcoats. As opposed to an average sell-through of five percent, we’re getting 7 to 9 percent on stretch.”

This kind of attention to nuances is what separates Jim Edelman from typical clothing merchants. “Side vents today are different than they were 20 years ago,” he explains to this editor (who hasn’t a clue). “Back then, it was an English side-vent that flared out; today, it’s straight and must be 10 inches or less, nine inches in more sophisticated models. When you see a vent that is 10 to 11 1/2 inches, it looks terrible. It’s so frustrating to ask vendors about the length of the vent and some can’t even answer…”

He speaks about the unique nature of Herald Square. “It’s a whole different ballgame here: an international tourist center with a strong business in better/designer, particularly among the Asian population. A good 30 percent of our transactions are sizes 36 to 39 regular, and about 30 percent are shorts. And as opposed to other stores that average 25 to 30 percent in longs, we do less than 20 percent longs in Herald Square. Also, more than 30 percent of the business here is two-button center vent. Most significantly, we have one of the most gorgeous clothing departments in the world, thanks in large part to recent efforts by Ron Klein. He’s been instrumental in upgrading and making the selling floors look upscale.”

Asked to describe a typical day, Jimmy explains that he does not spend his entire time in the market (and certainly not on the 34th floor of 1350)! “You have to spend a lot of time planning: the right assortment, the right flow, the right POS strategy. You can’t knee jerk a business any more: maybe with a dozen doors you could but with 83, it takes constant analysis and careful execution.” On Mondays, Jimmy is often in seclusion: “I analyze the weekend performance by category, by vendor, by lifestyle. Then I project out for the rest of the month, compensating for what didn’t do well and getting more of what did. Weekends tell you everything: a disproportionate amount of clothing business is done on weekends since that’s when men actually have time to shop.”

Asked about changes in the business since he’s been buying clothing, Jimmy laments that it’s become a much more serious market, with fewer vendors, less creativity, fewer jokes, and a lot less passion. “I remember going out to lunch in the old days with Maurice Bidermann: he’d get so excited about his ideas that he would draw on the tablecloths and ruin every single one. But that was real passion…”

Asked to describe himself as a person, Jimmy reflects for awhile. “I treat all people equally, I enjoy and appreciate life, I love a good time (especially with a glass of chardonnay!)” He most admires his wife Diane (a published author who’s currently taking poetry courses) for her intelligence and commitment to family as well as his late mother Adele (who died five years ago), also for her love of family.

Asked what he’s learned about life from his many years in the business, Jimmy doesn’t hesitate: “I’ve learned that retailing is a balancing act and you need to be a good politician. But more important, you need the courage of your convictions or you can’t look at yourself in the mirror. And above all, you need to respect people. No one can do it alone and the best way to get results is by valuing and inspiring others.”

This respect and conviction are evident in this anecdote from a clothing manufacturer who recently lost a few designer name licenses to a competitor. “Jimmy does business with both of our companies so he didn’t have to get involved. In fact, I don’t think any one else would have bothered to get involved. But because he thought the situation unfair, he spoke up for us, supported us, and made sure to give us business in our other designer licenses. He is a true mensch.”

JIMMY’S LIST

Best negotiator: Ron Wurtzburger (“No one works a deal like Ronny.”)

Best salesman: Joe Gordon (“He never stops selling…”)

Best businessmen: 1) the old YSL crew (Maurice Bidermann, Michel Zelnick, Ken Sitomer) and 2) Ken Hoffman

Best lunch date: Ralph Shockey and Dana Verrill

Most creative: Don Robbie (grew YSL then built his own line), Kasper (“ He predicted two years ago that the future of tailored clothing would be side-vented flatfront suits…”),

John Fowler (redesigned the old Alfani suit into a fashionable and salable garment)

Biggest ego: Marty Staff (“brilliant, interesting, eccentric and real: he tells it like it is…”)

Favorite NYC restaurant: Keen’s, Macy’s Cellar

Favorite Labels: Hugo Boss, Joseph Aboud

Most salable label: Lauren

Best new label: Trump

What the industry needs: More people like Ron Wurtzburger: he can be a pain in the butt but he’s good. He’s always finding ways to do more business and he never lets you leave his office unfulfilled.

HERE’S JIMMY!

Much beloved in the men’s clothing market, Jim Edelman is one of a kind. Here, a few comments from admirers.

Dana Verrill, Lanier

The first time I met Jimmy, I was a new account executive for Oscar de la Renta. I was just learning the business and knew nothing except that if I was going to make it, I needed to sell Jim Edelman. So I went to Brooklyn but only after I did a good amount of preparation: I did research and thought I had a compelling plan about how Oscar would fit into his mix, etc. Unfortunately, he didn’t buy the line but he was so appreciative of the fact that I had done my homework that I was always able to get an appointment with him and eventually, we did some business.

Bottom line: Jimmy is always responsive to learning about the business, no matter who from. And he always maintains the highest standards.

Dave Pergola, Hugo Boss

During our 2000-2001 season, our theme here at Hugo Boss was “rock star closet.” Of course, the showroom played non-stop rock music during market weeks and whenever a buyer would ask for the music to be turned down, Marty Staff would turn it up even louder.

So one particular afternoon when Jimmy was shopping the line, he asked for the music to be turned down and of course Marty blasted it. Jimmy broke into a profuse sweat, got up and walked out of the showroom. (He eventually came back to shop the line but made sure it was on a day when Marty was out of town…)

Marty thought it was no big deal but ultimately, Jimmy changed his mind about the internship he had worked out for his daughter at Hugo Boss…

Marty Staff, Joseph Abboud

I love Jimmy: he’s the quintessential “mad scientist”, always seeking out new ideas, be it suit separates, innovative fabrics or updated silhouettes.

And what’s really great about Jim Edelman is that when he gets excited or angry, his hair stands on end, his hands fly all over, the food comes out of his mouth, his drink spills, and all because he’s so passionate about what he believes in.

Interestingly, I speak to Jimmy more than any other suit buyer by far, all because I value his opinions that much. (Unfortunately, the Joseph Abboud suit separates that he encouraged us to get into have yet to sell a single piece…)

Rick Evers, London Fog

I’ve only known Jimmy for two seasons but I love the fact that he’s always saying to me, “Don’t get me started…” Apparently, there’s lots he could go on and on about…

Les Steiger, Macy’s

Jim Edelman is one of a kind. Thank God! They don’t make them like him anymore…

We had such a great great partnership: he worked for me for almost ten years; I’ve known him for more than 25…

In that time, I’ve never had anyone I work with come up with so many business-generating ideas. He’s constantly thinking of new ways to do business. Plus he has extremely high standards that he insists upon with both the people he works with in the store and the vendors in the market. He’s a great great merchant and an incredibly valuable asset to Macy’s East. I truly valued him as both a business partner and a friend.

I guess you could say our relationship was like a good marriage: we agreed on 90 percent of everything and on the 10 percent we didn’t, we’d yell and scream at each other and then make up. (The only difference is we didn’t kiss…) Bottom line: he’s a special guy and I’ll really miss working with him now that I’m headed south.

Jim Ammeen, Neema

What would 34th Street be without Macy’s and what would Macy’s be without Jim Edelman? He is a fixture, an icon and what a clothing buyer is all about. He is the consummate professional with a real feel, a real passion, for the business. Bottom line: he’s simply the best at what he does.

Stuart Goldblatt, Macy’s Merchandising Group

There are few people that care about their business as much as Jim Edelman. He lives, breathes, eats, drinks, sleeps men’s clothing. He’s the type of person you want on your team and I’m really glad he’s part of ours.

Stuart Golden, Golden Apparel

Jimmy knows his business like the back of his hand. If we had more clothing merchants with his knowledge, business would be better for everyone.

Jeffrey Wolf, Wearwolf

Jimmy has actually helped put Wearwolf on the map: he’s always stood behind us and our product and he’s one of the sole reasons we’re here today.

What’s more, Jimmy is like family: I feel like he has a genuine interest in us as a clothing company, and in us as people. He and David play golf together, plus he’s always been interested in my social life. In fact, he’s fixed me up on about ten blind dates over the past 15 years (and yes, a few of them were actually pretty good…)

Sure he can be tough: he’s a Wharton graduate, he knows his numbers, and he knows exactly what he wants to do. But it’s a pleasure to deal with a guy who’s so smart and has a sense of humor at the same time. He’s helped me grow up and has helped the company grow, thanks to his astute merchandising wisdom.

Steve Saft, Jacob Siegel

In an industry largely devoid of personality, thank goodness for Jim Edelman! He’s an old school sort of guy but really fun and funny. He’s a tough negotiator but you always know that the deal’s the deal. He’s very fair and there are no surprises.

I was once with him on the way to a wedding and we got caught in traffic on the highway. We had directions but Jimmy said he knew a faster way so we pulled off the highway to follow his shortcut. Bottom line, we took a left turn into Harlem, got hopelessly lost and of course ended up missing the ceremony. He still thinks my wife is mad at him but she’s not: we look back on it as an adventure!

Kurt Champlin

I joined A&S as a VP in 1977 and retired in 1995. When I first joined the store 28 years ago, I thought Jimmy was an old-time suit buyer; amazingly, he looks exactly the same today as he did back then… Bottom line, Jimmy believes in his convictions and always gets results, which is no small task. I have tremendous respect for him but when you first meet the guy, you can’t believe that this is the tailored clothing king of retailing. I mean, how old is that suit?

Ron Wurtzburger, Peerless

It’s a pleasure working with Jimmy because he always pays full price for his goods and never bugs me for markdown money or advertising. What’s more, his fashion taste is the best I’ve ever seen. It’s amazing the way he picks out those fantastic gray, navy and black stripes, and the way he merchandises them with those beautiful new fashion shades of charcoal, gray and black. He is truly a fashion leader in our industry!

Seriously, Jimmy is a true Hall of Famer. If the industry had an MVP, he would be nominated every year. And most years he’d win, even without steroids…

But very seriously, Jim Edelman should write a book for future businessmen and for retailers on how to run a major company so that it’s profitable. I remember when he first came to Macy’s and they gave him the “more expensive” suit department. It had been doing so poorly but in less than six months, Jimmy turned it around. (He figured out that even the expensive guys do off-price…)

I respect Jimmy so much as a businessman but I also cherish his friendship. The clothing industry is a better place because Jim Edelman is in it.

Billy Slitkin, Marcraft

Jim Edelman: the only guy I would change the width of my stripes for…

Jim Murray, HMX

He is probably the most astute and professional merchant we deal with in terms of having a handle on his business. And not only does he have an intrinsic feel for it, but he keeps moving it forward, and off a very large base. It’s astounding but I don’t think he’s ever missed a plan!

We think the world of Jimmy: he is incredibly honorable and a pleasure to deal with. He’s not always easy, to say the least, but he’s as fair as anyone out there.

As for personal stuff, I’ll share it when he retires…

Joe Gordon, Weintraub

Jimmy is the only guy who runs a department store clothing business as carefully as if it were a specialty store. He’s so good at it, he’s been doing it for so long, he is truly unequalled in his field.

The other thing that’s really amazing is that Jim is absolutely never overbought. You never have to worry when he gives you an order that he’ll come back to you and try to cancel some of it. He always takes in what he gives you; he knows how to control the numbers.

What’s more: he’s honest, he’s loyal, and he’s a nice person. It’s always a pleasure to work with Jimmy, even when he’s hollering at you, because he’s a good friend to so many of us in the industry and you always know he’ll be there for you.

Frank Wolf, Wearwolf

Jim is probably the only clothing merchant who is truly, in his own time, a legend. (Editor’s note: the props are wheels: we wonder why…)

Harvey Arfa, Gruner

Not only does Jim Edelman have a big pencil but he’s the only merchant who actually uses a pencil. He can generate a full year of orders on his little yellow pad; his size grid is a 50th generation photocopy of the original. Fortunately, there are people who can translate the pencil scrawl into confirmed orders.

He puts the interest of his company above all else. And although he has tremendous respect and loyalty for his vendors, Jimmy also demands a lot from them, particularly timely shipments and sharp pricing to meet his selling targets.

Three days before the start of a shipping window, Jim is already starting to make you feel late. He tells you how well your competition has been shipping, how much he lost in sales, how he will have to consider other vendors. He makes you wonder how you could possibly let him down…

Many stores today have EDI programs but only Jimmy has implemented a “personal EDI system” in that as soon as goods start moving, Jim is already there getting reorders on the floor. If sales are not up to par, Jim has a very clear memory of the comparative weather, the promotions, the coupons, the exact reasons why something sells or doesn’t. It never just happens.

Most of all, Jim is a gentleman: he never talks about your competition’s performance, he respects your competitors’ privacy, which gives you the confidence that he will respect yours.

Jorge Molina, John Bartlett

Jimmy is the Donald Trump of men’s suits: same power, same smarts, same hair…

Graziano DeBoni, Marzotto

I got to know Jimmy four or five years ago when I went back to Marzotto from Hugo Boss. He is the most interesting numbers-cruncher I’ve ever met. In fact, he knows the numbers of his business much better than the number of stripes on the suits. I always love lunching with Jimmy, even if he spits on my plate… But the best thing about Jimmy is certainly his wife: she is a lady, intelligent, cultured, absolutely wonderful! All the things that you can’t talk with Jimmy about, you can talk about with Diane. And with so much focus on Macy’s, it’s nice to know some one is shopping at Bergdorfs…

Jim Rosenthal, Claiborne Outerwear (Lou Levy)

I worked with Jimmy from 1980 to 1991 at A&S. I bought outerwear, he bought clothing, and he was always a mentor to me. He is the king. He can do complicated math calculations in his head and has an incredible memory! Without selling reports, he knows everything about every item on the floor; he has a great touch and feel for the business. And he has such a great formula for doing business: he negotiates arrangements and deals with every single vendor; he’s got every base covered! As a vendor, you’ve got to work with him, not around him or over him. But it’s the only way: he imparts so much wisdom and knowledge; he’s a master of the buying experience and understands changes and nuances in the business. He’s also got a good understanding of the modern market and how to incorporate newness.

Kasper

I’ve never met anyone who cares as much about what he’s doing and who he’s doing it with as Jim Edelman. He might be a bit wacky but Jim is truly one of the brightest and most sincere people in this business.

Sheldon Brody, Marcraft

I’ve known Jimmy for more than 25 years. In that time, he’s always proving his integrity, character and business acumen. For example, he was the first to move back into basic stripes from plaids. He lives and breathes clothing, he has a real vision and time has only improved his ability to predict trends and cash in on this vision, which is almost always the correct direction. He fights for what he believes in which is how he’s been able to build the business at Macy’s. He’s very focused and he truly gets it.

What’s more, Jimmy’s been a guiding light to younger people in the business: he’s an exceptional teacher. Plus he’s not the type to use friendships as a reason to buy a particular line. He buys what’s best for the store, and for his customers. You’ll never get one single suit from Jimmy unless he truly believes it will sell. But he’ll help you out in other ways such as letting you know what’s working: he’s the first to give an indication of what consumers are buying so you can stay the course or change direction. Whether it’s stripes, three-buttons, or side vents, it’s great to get information early from a reliable source.

Craig Lickliter, Kenneth Cole

Jimmy Edelman is the dean of tailored clothing. I’ve known him since 1998 and I am still in awe. His reputation in the industry is impeccable: everybody knows him and admires him. He’s the only merchant who’s always got his open-to-buy under control so he can take advantage of opportunities that arise. I don’t know how he does it but he’s always on stock plan. He knows his business better than anyone else.

What’s more, he’s got a very young attitude: he loves parties and ball games and other social situations and he can move effortlessly among different age groups. Most importantly, he’s incredibly good humored. From the first time I met him, he made me feel comfortable right away. And every time I’m with him, I always learn something, so I’m always asking his opinion on things.

Mostly what I’ve learned from him is to keep it simple. As in industry, we like to think ahead but he’s always focused on what his customer needs now which is why Macy’s is so successful. Also important: Kevin and Les know how to empower their merchants who are legitimate experts in their field. They trust and listen to Jimmy and are able to glean the most important information.

Sal Cesarani

I love Jimmy Edelman: he is the consummate professional. People might joke that he buys nothing but navy, black and gray but it’s not true: he has a keen understanding of how to step up the fashion quotient in appropriate markets. He really knows his business, he’s got everything down pat, so he always ends up with the right mix for the right customers. Plus as a person, there’s no one better.

Chris Champlin, Sanyo

Jimmy knows what he wants, he knows what he can sell, and he knows how to move a lot of coats! There’s no one in the industry with his longevity. He’s obviously the most effective buyer ever who learns from his mistakes (you can’t survive that long by doing the same old thing.) He’s also a great guy!