Talk about stress! You have just three days in Vegas to see thousands of men’s collections, showing not in one place, but all over town. If you’re exhausted just thinking about it, the editors at MR are here to help. What follows: our list of Top 10 Must-See, Relatively New and Totally Cool collections, lines you should definitely check out in Vegas. We predict they’ll brighten your selling floor and jumpstart sales. We’ll be adding a couple new picks each day this week. Check back daily, or watch for the News Flash in your inbox.
EQ
While its 20-year-old parent company, Equilibrio, deals exclusively in sophisticated woven shirts, recent spin-off EQ has evolved into a full casual
collection featuring knits, soft coats and outerwear, in addition to wovens.
Denim is here to stay, and guys are always in need of something that pairs easily with jeans. Show them EQ’s vintage washed merinos next fall and they’ll thank you for providing an alternative to the ubiquitous plaid flannel. They’ve been flying off the shelves in 12 beautiful colors with just the right amount of fading.
Don’t miss the outerwear, especially the wool/cashmere coat with hoodie and vintage twill jacket (its nylon quilted vest comes out completely, making this two outerwear pieces for the price of one). Both are $120 for $295 retail.
Visit booths 639 and 738 at MRket to get a peek at the line that Nordstrom, Holt Renfrew and Garys have already discovered.
—JS
Smart Turnout
I’m a big fan of Smart Turnout, a U.K. company that specializes in regimental, university and sporting accessories. I’ve written about their ties and their
cricket hats before, but I’d like to highlight their sweaters—“jumpers” in British parlance.
Regimental sweaters are what Smart Turnout was founded on. Philip Turner, a former soldier in the British Army’s Scots Guards, started the company after getting compliments from friends and fellow soldiers on a Scots Guard sweater (like the one pictured here).
Smart Turnout’s regimental designs, in wool/acrylic blends for $99 retail, consist of clean stripes, zig-zags and bands of checks on navy grounds. And if you can think of a regiment—or a school or club—that isn’t represented, Smart Turnout’s wholesale division will work with you on other designs. See them at MRket Las Vegas.
—HS
Riviera Club
Santa Monica-based Riviera Club is a contemporary sportswear brand that’s inspired by vintage California. In its second season, the brand was founded by three friends: Derek Buse, Greg Ullery and Joe Sadler. Specifically, the fall 2010 collection took inspiration from the early 1960s “dry ski club” images. Buse explains the club as “a group of guys that set out to train for the upcoming ski season, but above all, their mission was to screw around and have fun. We really liked this idea and incorporated it into the line.”
Riviera Club sells to retailers like Ron Herman, Fred Segal and K Frank. T-shirts retail for $50, pants for $155 and blazers for $165. But don’t take our word for it; see for yourself at Project, Las Vegas.
—EMD
Vicomte A.
This refined sportswear collection is presented in four lifestyles based on the needs of modern day nobility—because if you’re not lounging, exploring or skiing, you’re most likely out flying your own vintage prop plane. Kidding aside, the casual elegance of the line will impress American men who want to look good but won’t sacrifice comfort.
My favorites include a cashmere blend cardigan with shirting details at the collar, cuffs and hem from the “Basics” grouping. (Cashmere blends offer great margins, wholesaling at $90 for $225 to $245 suggested retail.) I was also drawn to the thick, unique knit of their “Alpine Heritage” cashmere shawl neck sweater, with flannel forearm patches. Wholesale $118 for $295 retail.
If you’re on an Olympics kick like I am, you’ll appreciate the American fleece from “Winter Sport.” In brushed cotton jersey, this zip-neck pays homage to Aspen with an authentic patch and subtle flag detailing.
This year marks the French company’s first foray into the North American market and it’s already been picked up by Harry Rosen and Clusier. See the line at MRket in booth 427.
—JS
Santorelli
For American guys wanting to dress like Italians without mortgaging their homes, Ben Olia has put together a winning collection. The suits are made in Italy to retail from $1,000 to $1,500, fine cotton shirts range from $98.50 to $115, sportcoats from $900-$1,200. There’s also great outerwear (our favorite waxed cotton piece with zip-out insert retails at $295) and beautifully shaded ties and scarves. We love the way the colors, fabrics, textures and patterns mix together for effortless sophistication. The collection has been picked up by Saks, Nordstrom and better specialty stores; check them out at MRket (see Ben or Brian).
—KAG
Reyn Spooner
Reyn Spooner, which has been around since the 1950s, is one of a number of original purveyors of that uniquely American garment, the Hawaiian shirt—or as they’re known in the 50th state, Aloha shirts. Founder Reyn McCullough’s 1960s
innovation was to use colorful print fabrics inside out to mimic the fading surfers achieved after long wear in the sun and salt water.
After the brand’s recent acquisition by a new backer, CFDA Award-winning designer Gordon Thompson has joined Reyn Spooner to help re-launch it and broaden its appeal to a younger market. That means taking advantage of its heritage and delving into the company’s print archive for inspiration. I’m betting that with the recent popularity of iconic American brands and classic styles, Aloha shirts in general and the Reyn Spooner brand in specific could be poised for a great comeback.
Shirts retail for around $85. The brand is exhibiting its younger line at Capsule Las Vegas and its full line at MRket Las Vegas (booth 822).
—HS
Comune
Comune is a contemporary streetwear brand with on-trend, laid back styling that reflects their consumer’s laid back attitude and lifestyle. Fall 2010, its third season, mixes coated and textured materials with modern silhouettes and clean lines all while maintaining the streetwear edge. What’s more, it delivers major bang for your buck: Wovens retail from $62 to $72, denim retails from $58 to $72, knits are $68 to $94 and outerwear from $82 to $186. Comune already sells to retailers like American Rag, Revolveclothing.com and Karmaloop.com. Check them out for yourself at Capsule in Las Vegas.
—EMD
Knit one, pick two
We truly do seem to be moving into a knitwear cycle and, after having seen a lot of great pieces for fall 2010, I’ve finally ended up in a tie for my faves to date.
At ENK New York, the Crossley collection interprets some classic silhouettes with an attitude. The knit motorcycle jacket should be a must-have for menswear retailers at all levels. It’s luxurious enough to be a great weekend piece for a tailored clothing guy, but a denim guy can wear it every day. Kilgore Trout, Butch Blum, Oak and Camouflage all carry the eight-year old collection from Florence. The motorcycle jacket retails for a suggested $275. The collection will be at ENKVegas booth 1904.
At C89, on the other hand, the collection’s cashmeres and lambswool pieces are exquisite (with a great trim fit), but I think the boiled wool outerwear pieces are just delicious. A peacoat, retailing for around $300, with an almost boucle-like texture is a favorite, but there’s also a half-lined knit sportcoat, for about $325, that zippers and buttons, which is a must-have. Cullen, the parent company, has been around for 21 years, but the branded collection is into its second season. So far stores like Taylor, Richards, Conger; Sy Devore and Charles Spiegel have picked up the line. Represented by Aeros Showroom, check it out at MRket booth #325.
—JJ
Voodoo Guru
In their second season, this collection of contemporary softcoats, woven shirts, knit shirts, and five-pocket pants hits just the right balance between edgy and saleable. The line is trendy but not too tricked out, aimed at a demographic between 25 and 45. We love the softcoats ($250-$400 suggested retail) with perfect details including well-placed zippers and working buttonholes. (Our favorite: an enzyme-washed corduroy at $117 for a $299 suggested retail.) Also strong, the slim but not skinny five-pocket trousers in waxed cottons and corduroys ($150 retail) as well as hooded flannels and lots of double-faced shirts ($100-$125 retail).
The best part? In addition to the margins, it’s produced by a clothing company, so the coats are not just good-looking but also well made. The line is currently selling in Ron Herman and better specialty stores.
At Project Las Vegas, Booth #558. See Jeff Ammeen and Jared Byer.
—KAG
Moore & Giles
If there is one item that fits the Vegas milieu more than any other, it’s got to be Moore & Giles’s Meehan bag. The “utility bag and bar roll-up” was designed to spec with “American Bartender of the Year” Jim Meehan. Yes, it has room (and specially padded dividers) for a couple of bottles of premium spirits and a cocktail shaker. Yes, it features a flawlessly organized section for tools, as well as a “roll-up” that functions kind of like a chef’s knife roll. However it also wraps all that up in gorgeous waxed canvas and leather materials. As Meehan puts it, “I wanted my bag to reflect the style and timeless design of my calfskin Jack Spade messenger bag, canvas Filson luggage and vintage Belstaff raincoat while delivering the functionality of my Koobi Kit (knife bag) and camera bag.” Mission accomplished, and I’ll drink to that. Perfect for tailgate parties, a great holiday gift for Dad and would probably score you free drinks for life if you gave it to your favorite barkeep. Suggested retail is $660 and $150 for the roll-up, and it’s already been picked up by Oak Hall, Context Clothing, Harrison Limited and Cocktail Kingdom…Blackbird ordered just the roll-up. Now, of course, a $700 bag in this economy for a lot of your customers might be a stretch, but the rest of the Moore & Giles collection is true to form, featuring fashion bags that are both practical and masculine. See them at MRket booth #512. Bring your own hooch. —JJ
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