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HotPix 2010
MR's Annual look at interesting companies that might be under your radar, as published in the April 2010 issue. Click here to browse.
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John Jones JohnJ@MRketplace.com John's bio See all of John's recent blogs and comments |
"The rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated." —Mark Twain
In times like these, the rumor mill is probably the only factory that's working beyond capacity. Whether this store or that company is going out of business; whether this or that executive is unfurling a golden parachute or just jumping out a window is overloading phone lines and e-mail servers. And, admittedly, as a media outlet, we do our own fair amount of trade in the rumor business, teasing out stories and divining the cold hard facts.
So on a recent visit to the Lanier Clothing showroom, VP of Sales Alan Rubin emphasized that, even though the company had recently made some cutbacks in personnel and lost two brands, "we still have seven brands here!"
While touring the showroom, it was reassuring to see how Rubin has streamlined the operation to take on a troubled tailored clothing market with gusto. Each of the company's branded labels; Arnold Brant, Ben Sherman, Billy London, Dockers, Geoffrey Beene and Kenneth Cole has been precisely priced and merchandised for clearly defined target markets. The sales team has been refocused from a brand-specific to a client-centric focus...essentially cross-trained on every brand the company sells. Rather than an atmosphere of fear or depression resulting in our current economic climate, this showroom had the air of well-trained troops preparing for battle.
Rubin had us start our tour with Ralf Shockey and the Billy London collection. This skinny, skinny young men's collection is all based on a black, solid three-button jacket that an H&M or Urban Outfitters shopper might pair with jeans. It bears a rock-and-roll, Mods influence, and separates retail for around $149. I particularly loved the black and white print coat linings that, yes, featured skulls, but were reminiscent of Warhol prints.
We then moved on to the Geoffrey Beene showroom where Kathleen Anastasio showed us an opening price point luxury collection--cashmere blend sportcoats priced to go OTD $200, paired with suede "lifestyle" vests. The look was coordinated, but not matchy-matchy, and created for a guy who is looking for something a little better at a little better price.
David Napoli then showed us the Kenneth Cole collections. Kenneth Cole New York, Kenneth Cole Reaction, Kenneth Cole Black Label.... Can you say cult following? As if the "extreme black" suit weren't enough for this customer, they've added wrinkly metal-fiber fabrics, vests, synthetic suedes, and a new collection of embroidered "rocker" coats. All very slim, shorter and priced to move at around $495.
Speaking of cult followings, the Ben Sherman collection, designed by Keanan Duffty, is looking very modern...by looking very retro, of course. A skinny, peaked lapel has a gentle curve so it's almost a shawl collar. Every suit has a vest, and retail for $595 to $695.
Craig Lickliter walked us from the Ben Sherman "library" over to Arnold Brant, where he and Francesco Michelacci showed us this luxurious collection. Staying true to the brand's i.d. of colors that "speak to cashmere," the lines suits are more dressy, but the sportcoats are more relaxed. I would have been hard-pressed to pick a favorite from this collection, but the square-quilted sportcoat in soft heathered grey or the Black Watch plaid coat were definitely in the running.
I want to end this piece talking about the Dockers collection. Yvonne Taber showed us this collection of...well...NON-fashion! And I mean that as a complement! Look, let's face it...there are a lot of American guys who want to dress nicely, but who don't want to look like they read GQ. They want something that's simple, easy to put together, easy to care for...and easy on the wallet! The jacket is a classic 2-button center fit that is ever so slightly slimmer (even the non-fashion guy is working out, apparently). The plain front trouser hearkens back to that popular Dockers khaki fit, but in a "wool-rich" blend of wool and viscose. They are accented with understated brushed cotton twill vests. Again, each piece is precisely targeted to its target market.
I need to give a special thanks to Rodney Rosal who was out of the office the day of our appointment, but who was gracious enough to meet me the next day so I could take pictures.