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Catching Up with: Andy Gilchrist, part one

By: Harry Sheff

September 22, 2008

Ask Andy About Clothes, Andy Gilchrist’s website and clothing forums, gets an average of 640,000 hits per day and boasts 18,000 forum members. Gilchrist started the site in 2001 shortly after retiring from the corporate world. He’s been a top salesman at a Polo Ralph Lauren store and he’s written an encyclopedia of menswear.

Here, in the first of a two-part Q&A, Gilchrist chatted with MRketplace.com via e-mail from his home in Manhattan Beach, California.

Is your most popular question still about socks and trouser matching? What questions have come up lately that have surprised you?

Still high on the list of questions asked, maybe not as common. Recently I’ve been asked why golf shirts didn’t have a pocket, some questions about shell cordovan, how to launder out perspiration stains, the best fold for a pocket square with a tuxedo and lots of questions about strange dress codes on invitations (“Classically Elegant”) or where they can find 2K158 Cocco Moro by Kiton men’s shoes.

Lots of questions about what to wear on cruises and where to find a pants creaser or the best steamer. Not too many surprises except some that can easily be found using Google like “where can I buy a spread collar shirt?” or “What are cuff links?” Really!

Why do you think your website is so successful?

Luckily, it coincided with a renewed awareness that how you look has an influence on others. Guys can’t or don’t sit around together drinking a beer or working and discuss clothes. Even if they’re interested in clothing, guys don’t say “Wow, those are great pleated pants, I really like the fabric and drape! Where did you get those?”

Men are trained by society that they shouldn’t care so much about their appearance. Too much fussing is not masculine. So when my website was introduced there was a Forum (chat room) where you could actually talk to other guys (anonymously!) about clothing. You could get tips on what was the right thing to wear to your friends wedding. Who and where else could you ask?

Do you think the average American man is more educated about clothing than he was when you started your website?

The millions of readers of my website are, but the lack of men’s clothing education is what drives them to my website. Somehow we lost that link between father and son of passing down clothing knowledge.

The education about men’s clothing that didn’t come from our fathers used to come from the men’s magazines. I have some old issues of Esquire that have sections explaining, for example, sweaters—the styles, how to wear them, how to take care of them, the differences in wool.

Now all the men’s magazines try to do is sell us on whatever their advertisers are pushing, and telling us that a new pink sport jacket is the latest thing to wear to a business meeting. It’s harmful and disrespectful of their readers and their readers know it.

Menswear retailers—like everyone in retail—are having a hard time getting customers in the door. Any advice? Has the economy affected the way you shop?

I would shop in any economy! But I’m slightly weird that way (must be those shopping genes—but mine are wool not dark denim!). I go shopping almost every day. Don’t always buy anything.

Men are historically (prehistorically) hunters. We should love going out and hunting for just the right sport jacket! Seems we have a bad rap for that and maybe it’s because clothing is something our mothers and wives bought for us. But ask a guy to go shopping for a car or electronics and he’s out the door.

Men like to shop quickly. They don’t want to be helped. I’d advise retailers to make sure the prices on every item are clearly marked and that there are big signs up with categories (Suits, Ties, Shirt, Belts). When I pick up a pair of trousers I want to be able to easily and quickly find the size, price, what fabric it’s made of, the benefits (wrinkle free, etc.).

Make the store welcoming and fun. How about an espresso machine for customers?

I always thought if I had a men's store, I’d only sell “outfits” (which is a women’s term, maybe for men it’s “ensembles”). A complete ensemble would be displayed in the store—shirt, pants, belt, sweater, socks, shoes, etc. And the gentleman could just say I'd like #6 in an XL, 32 x 32 pants, 10 shoe, etc.

 

Read part two, with more questions about retail, HERE.

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